Tibet: Lhasa Experiences
Finally, we wrap up the trip with bits and pieces of our wonderful stay in Lhasa. First, the hotel - we had deluxe rooms at the Yak Hotel. Wonderfully situated, right outside of the Barkhor area, it was convenient to shopping, sightseeing and food. Tibetan Expeditions has their office in the complex, adjacent to the Dunya Restaurant. While food was not included in our itinerary, we were pleased to receive breakfasts at the Dunya, one dinner show (see below) and one dinner at the restaurant. The food was so good, the coffee excellent, the patio/bar area perfect for that happy hour drink, that we ate nowhere else (apart from the dinner show).
Hours could be spent shopping in the Barkhor area. Seeing everything from cut-rate Chinese plastic to overpriced Tibetan antiques. We opted for shopping at the Dropenling Handicraft Development Center, where all profits are returned to the artisan communities. A few Tibetan rugs and associated masks later, we headed off to the Thangka stores. Our favorite was Mani Thangka Arts, across from the Pentoc Hotel.
As you wander the shopping streets, take note of the piles of yak cheese, and bedecked, swirling prayer wheels. When you are ready for a break, the coffee shop inside the Pentoc Hotel bills itself as having the best coffee in town. They could be right about that - just avoid the crowds of chain-smoking tourists.
Off we head to the dinner show at the Shangri-la restaurant. After the range of food we'd had on his trip, the food and yak butter tea were no longer too exciting. But it is always fun to see a bit of the music and dance culture of a region. Blessings were brought onto Sherry and Judy by the (scruffy) dancing yak...neither seems thrilled.
After enjoying the chili powders Cynthia bought in Dali on the Yunnan trip, I was determined to acquire chili from Tibet. Here we are in the market, negotiating on enough chili to last two families a year or more!
Finally, a few spots of local color. The touch of China displayed by the police officer clipping toenails while on duty in Barkhor Square. The juxtaposition of old and new with monks in front of the Budweiser tent which houses the police guards at Barkhor Square.
Sunday to Sunday, we had a great trip to Tibet. Well organized and orchestrated by our hosts at Tibetan Expeditions and Shigatse Travel. Made colorful and vibrant by our warm-hearted guide, Gaden, and our cheerful driver. And filled with the sounds, smells and sights of Tibet.
Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse, Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten, Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo, Tibet Day 5: Enroute to Final Stop - Lhasa and Tibet: Lhasa - Jokhang, Barkhor, Potala and Sera
Labels: Dunya Restaurant, Lhasa, Tibetan Expeditions, Yak Hotel
Tibet: Lhasa - Jokhang, Barkhor, Potala and Sera
Lhasa is the holy city of Tibet. Prior to the Chinese coming into Tibet, it was the home of the Dalai Lamas. Central to the spiritual faith of the Tibetan Buddhist is the Jokhang Temple. Construction started in 647 AD. It commemorates the marriage of the Tang princess Wencheng to King Songtsen Gampo.
Two days a week, admission is free. It is on this day that the palace is flooded with pilgrims from
across Tibet. Queued for hours, they push and jostle through the incense fills chambers of the Palace. While not for the claustrophobic soul, this is the time to truly experience the worship and faith of the Tibetan people. Outside the palace, pilgrims prostrate themselves on mats. Perhaps more enlightening is to see the faith on display from the pilgrims who prostrate themselves every step of the kora - the pilgrimage circuit of the Barkhor, a clockwise circuit around the Temple. With leather aprons, wooden blocks on their hands, and possibly pads on their knees, the prostrating pilgrims pray, clap their hands, and fall forward, sliding yards around the circuit.
Despite the free admission, there is plenty of money flying around. Whether in a small temple like those we visited in Tsetang, or in these large palaces, worshipers and pilgrims exchange larger notes for stacks of 1 jiao notes (0.1 yuan approximately worth US$0.013). The jiao notes are made in offering to the various buddha, lamas, gods, and guardians. At the largest temples, you'll come upon monks counting and sorting piles and piles of notes. It looks like a lot of money, yet when you look at maintaining 14th century buildings with all of the statues, paying for all of the utilities, and clothing and feeding the monks and support staff, it remains a hard life.
Lining the circuit are shops, stalls, and teahouses. The pilgrims include monks from various sects, Khambas who braid their hair with red yarn, and Golok women with incredible ornate braids.
Potala Palace was once the seat of the government of Tibet, and
continues (despite the presence of cameras and microphones) to represent the hope of self-government. It was the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas.
The palace was built in the 7th century and extended in the 17th century to its present size. At 13 stories high (with no elevators), the stairs of the palace represent a test of acclimatization to the altitude. We were happy enough to face it at the end, rather than the beginning of our trip.
Like many things in Tibet, access to the palace is heavily controlled. Having a guide arrange for passes is the best option. Gaden was hopeful that the palace would not be too busy on the day of our arrival and we could get in early (and have more time to visit). But then waiting is the name of the game in Tibet. During high season, visits are limited to one hour, so getting in early is good if possible.
Tim can't resist the "modeling" that goes on with the attractive asian young women. Somehow the rest of us couldn't reach the same standard of pose, despite our best attempts.
Sera monastery is a must-do in the afternoons. The monastery was founded in 1419. Once housing over 5000 monks, the monastery is now home to 600. Visit
in the afternoon and witness the unique style of training and education.
Questions are put to the learner with an open hand. Answers pondered and given. Discussion ensues. Wrong answers get another kind of clap. Correct answers a different hand signal. The courtyard filled with listeners, questioners and watchers reverberates with clapping, learning and discussion. In listening closely to one pair, Gaden's comment was "it is hard!" With no texts on hands, what a great way to learn for both student and teacher.
Filled to the brim with monasteries, temples and palaces, we skipped Drepung, leaving that for our next Tibetan Expedition.
Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse, Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten, Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo, and Tibet Day 5: Enroute to Final Stop - Lhasa
Link forward to Tibet: Lhasa Experiences
Labels: Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, Potala Palace, Sera Monastery, Tibet
Day 5: Enroute to our Final Stop - Lhasa
Traveling back through the countryside to our last and final stop Lhasa ...
We finally caught this picture showing the normal fuel storage. Cow/yak pies are stuck to the walls of the home or surrounding fences to dry and to be available for use for cooking and heating.
Travel times are controlled throughout Tibet, not by patrol cars, radar guns or speed cameras. Rather they are controlled by a permitting system. As you leave one area, the guide races out of the car to pick up a pass from the guards. Back in the car, there is much inspection of the pass, discussion with the driver, calculations, glances at the clock and ultimately a plan. The concept that this prevents speeding is through awry by the line-up of cars parked by the roadside a few kilometers from the next checkpoint. Here we wait - perhaps our longest wait of 20 minutes - for the exact time to leave. Be early and the driver receives a ticket for 100 RMB, a substantial hit to the daily wage for these guides and drivers.
With few major roads in Tibet, combined with travel times, you do spend a bit of time in the van. And occasionally visiting the same roadside restaurant. Here we are back in our same booth at the restaurant en route from Samye to Gyantse, complete with flies and a less-than-pleasant bathroom.
Nietang Buddha, 25 miles southwest of Lhasa city, is the biggest stone
statue
engraved on a cliff in Tibet. Notice Douglas standing just in front of Buddha's hand. Located at the north foot of Nietang Mountain. The Buddha statue is one of Sakyamuni sitting under a bodhi tree to capture evils. The statue is about 26 feet width and 32 feet. Always trying to gain merit, Douglas tries to toss a traditional white silk scarf onto the Buddha engraving.
And, finally our last stop, Lhasa where we are met by the golden yak statues and our first view of the Potala Palace.
Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse, Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten and Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and TashilhunpoLink forward to Tibet Day 6: Lhasa - Jokhang, Barkhor, Potala and SeraLabels: Neitang Buddha, Stone Buddha near Lhasa
Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo
Onward on the road to Shigatse, Tibet's second largest city and the traditional capital of the Tsang. The key place to visit in Shigatse is Tashilhunpo Monastery, the seat of the Panchen Lama. Here you can see the 85 ft high statue of Maitreya, the Future Buddha, covered in more than 600 lbs of gold.
Recalling that lamas are cremated and placed in tombs, this is the place to see numerous elaborate tombs of the various Panchen
Lamas. Panchen Lamas are any of the line of reincarnated lamas in Tibet, each of whom heads the influential Tashilhunpo and until recent times was second only to the Dalai-Lama in spiritual authority within the dominant Dge-lugs-pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism.
The walls of Tashilhunpo are unique - they are probably a meter thick and constructed of bundles of densely packed roots - something perhaps like juniper. Water and rot-resistant, this monastery built in 1447 should continue to house the "yellow hat" sect for many centuries to follow.
Overnight at the Manasarovar Hotel.
Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse, and Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten
Link forward to Tibet Day 5: Enroute to our Final Stop - Lhasa
Labels: Shigatse, Tashilhunpo, Tibet
Tibet Day 4: Gyantse - Pelkor Chode and Kumbum Chorten
Off after breakfast for the sights of Gyantse. The Dzong of Gyantse towers above the town. The dzong (a fort) contains an anti-British Imperialists museum. In 1904 Sir Francis Young-Husband led a British expeditionary force from India into Tibet & they set up camp in Gyantse Dzong, staying for several months before moving into Lhasa.
The British invasion was rife with cultural misunderstandings. The British didn't understand the burial rites of the Tibetans, so in the proper British fashion buried the Tibetan dead. The Tibetans horrified by this practice came later to dig up the bodies for sky burials. And then, the British took the injured Tibetans into their hospitals for treatment. How could they kill one day, and heal the next? Most confusing!
The Gyantse pachu monastery/Pelkor Chode was built in 1418 by a local chieftan and monk kadup gelake pasang (the first panchen lama). The monastery held stacks and stacks of books with Buddhist writing - both in Sanskrit and Tibetan.
The most notable building at the monastery is the Kumbum Chorten, a stupa built in 1427. With 9 tiers and 108 chapels, it is a key cultural relic. Each chapel contains numerous murals, painting and statues.
Gyantse is deemed by the tour books to be the Tibetan city with the least Chinese influence. Possibly true, though given time, that is sure to change. No doubt, wandering through the old parts of town would be interesting given the time.
More harvesting in this part of the country - this time hay - with fields filled with people and hay wagons filled to overflowing.
En route to Shigatse, we stopped at a local barley flour mill. Barley is roasted and then ground. The flour mixed with yak butter, known as tsampa, is a primary food
source for Tibetans. One of those
local dishes like porridge, poi, and grits that sticks to the ribs, and is an acquired taste to those not born to it.
Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye, Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake and Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse.
Link forward to Tibet Day 4: Shigatse and Tashilhunpo
Labels: Gyantse, Gyantse Dzong, Kumbum Chorten, Pelkor Chode, Tibet
Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse
The drive from Samye to Gyantse is long day, but well worth it. Of course, if you're bored, you can travel like Douglas ...
After leaving Yamdrok-Tso Lake and stopping for lunch, we headed through farming country. At the
beginning of October, the fields are full of people harvesting. Stopping to find out what was in the fields - "cow food", we found that sweet turnips were being harvested.
Farther along, we found a "real Tibetan factory" - the place where Potala incense was being made. Run-off streams were turned into
small outdoor milling operations. Something like sandalwood was being pounded and pulverized, and ultimately turned into incense sticks.
Amazing to find mountains giving way to sand dunes, as the river ran fast and narrow and then smoothed out into wide river valleys. The sand-boarding market opportunity remains untapped in the region!
Along the way, we passed sky burial sites. Extracted from travelchinaguide.com,
Stupa burial and cremation are reserved for high lamas who are being honored in death. Sky burial is the usual means for disposing of the corpses of commoners. The origin of sky burial remains largely hidden in Tibetan mystery.Sky burial is a ritual that has great religious meaning. Tibetans are encouraged to witness this ritual, to confront death openly and to feel the impermanence of life. Tibetans believe that the corpse is nothing more than an empty vessel. The spirit, or the soul, of the deceased has exited the body to be reincarnated into another circle of life. It is believed that the Drigung Kagyu order of Tibetan Buddhism established the tradition in this land of snow, although there are other versions of its origin.
The corpse is offered to the vultures. It is believed that the vultures are Dakinis. Dakinis are the Tibetan equivalent of angels. In Tibetan, Dakini means "sky dancer". Dakinis will take the soul into the heavens, which is understood to be a windy place where souls await reincarnation into their next lives. This donation of human flesh to the vultures is considered virtuous because it saves the lives of small animals that the vultures might otherwise capture for food.
Turning off the main road, we headed across the countryside to visit a farming village. While much has been done to improve conditions for people in towns, and farmers along the roadside, a large percentage of Tibetans live in harsh conditions with little, if any, government support to improve their lives.
A woman welcomed us to her home. You see the entrance, in which small animals could be housed, the kitchen blackened by years of smoke and oil. The walls and floor pounded earth. A magnificent Tibetan chest held most of the family's belongings.
With the furniture resting up against the packed earthen wall and sitting on the packed earth floor, the reasons for the state of Tibetan furniture brought into Shanghai becomes much clearer. It's a wonder there is much left to work with.
Reaching Gyantse, we stayed overnight at the Jianzang Hotel in rooms with private baths. Certainly adequate, though not exciting. Down the street with Gaden to another Tashi Restaurant - not as good as the one in Tsetang, or the Snowlands Restaurant in Samye. Breakfast at the little restaurant next door to the hotel ... love that Nescafe for breakfast!
See earlier postings at Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye and Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake
Link forward to Tibet Day 4: Gyantse Pelkor Choede and Kumbum Chorten
Labels: Gyantse, Jianzang Hotel, Tibet
Tibet Day 3: Road to Gyantse - Yamdrok-Tso Lake
The road to Gyantse takes you to Yamdrok-Tso Lake. After winding up the mountain for an hour, you reach the overlook to the stunningly blue lake at the summit of the Kamba-la pass (4794m). The lake is below the road at 4488m. In one direction, the lake is deeply turquoise, in another a vivid deep blue.
Vendors abound with offers of yak
rides (that would be posing on the yak),
pictures with the local breed of dog (sadly adorned with a fuzzy cuff around their necks), and plastic beads from China tricked out
to look Tibetan.
Unfortunately, the old road from Lhasa to Gyantse is under construction, so it's back down the hill the same way we came up. While the trip up was winding and slow, we seemed to fly down the hill towards our lunch at a
roadside restaurant -- food OK, service barely keeping up with the clientele, the bathrooms - well, just don't look or breathe.
The hillsides on the way back down
the mountain are grazing lands for yak and sheep herds. We loved seeing the herds spinning wool on hand spindles as they walked and talked.
And in case you wonder how you travel as a party of 6 on a Tibetan Expeditions private tour ... here's our van. Good vehicle, great driver, decent seats and suspension, always interesting music.
Link back to the beginning of the October 2007 Tibet trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, Tibet Day 2: Tsetang and Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye
Link to Tibet Day 3: Continuing on the Road to Gyantse
Labels: Tibetan Expeditions, Yamdrok-Tso Lake
Tibet Day 2: Journey to Samye Monastery
See the beginning of the trip at: Planning for Tibet, Arriving in Tibet and Off to Tsetang, and Tibet Day 2: Tsetang
Leaving Tsetang behind, we head back to the Yellow River (aka Yarlung Tsangpo, aka Brahmaputra) for our "ferry" ride to Samye. The ferry leaves from the southern shore when full, though clearly Gaden had a favorite driver in mind. So off through the shoreline mud we head to the last boat nearly ready to depart ... apart from the additional six foreigners!
Whether the boat was beyond capacity or not, we'll never know. Suffice it to say that there weren't 6 more life jackets to be had. Not a great loss, since the life jackets were well beyond the state of having any use - torn, ties ripped off and foam compressed beyond flotation.
The Yarlung River is wide, shallow, sand bar ridden and flowing
with a swift current. The journey was longer than it looked, as we wound west through the sand bars and then back to the east. We could imagine the problems if the boat were to overturn. Useless life jackets, Tibetans who probably don't know how to swim, layers of heavy wool clothes, frigid waters and a swift current. I took comfort in the prayers swirling around me, as prayer wheels spun.
In the meantime, the six of us gave plenty of entertainment to other passengers. From the silver hair of Judy and I, the hair on Douglas's legs, to the pictures
Tim was taking, the ride was more interesting than normal for all involved.
Perhaps that's why Gaden wanted our boat and driver, and not this one who had his own style to boat driving!
Somewhere along the journey, it would appear to be wise to pull a small cup from your robe, dip water out of the Yarlung River, drink it, and dowse your head. Or perhaps, that’s only wise if you’re a Tibetan Buddhist.
Loaded onto a bus with the other locals and visitors, we head to the Samye Monastery and town. The monastery was built between 750 and 779 AD by King Trisong Detsen, a great Indian master Shanirakshita, and the
Tantric adept Padmasambhava. This trio is remembered in Tibetan history as the "Abbott, Master and Dharma King". This is the first monastery of Tibet and considered to be the source of the "river of Tibetan Buddhism". It is place where Buddhist scriptures were first translated from Sanskrit into Tibetan.
The monastery is ringed by four large stupas - one each is white, red, black and green. A wall surrounds the entire complex, topped by 1028 stupas.
A Chinese town is being slowly built outside the walls of the monastery complex. It is here that you can find excellent food
(dinner and breakfast) at the English Snowlands Restaurant ("WE HAVE ANENGLISH MENV") . With the sun so strong in Tibet, fuel (frequently cow/yak pies) isn't wasted on boiling water - solar powered tea kettles were seen everywhere.
Accommodations are at the Monastery Guesthouse. Rooms were equipped with decent twin beds and blankets, easy chairs with shredded covers, a washstand
with two basins for washing, and a chamber pot. Showers are available in the ground floor bath - Tim
recommended not even looking. Toilets were at the most basic level, though moderately clean as these things go. I expect that the foreigners are routinely put on the top floor for a reason. Views were stunning as the sun set, and early in the morning at the brisk sunrise.
Back in the bus and off to the river for the journey back across the Yarlung River. Eschewing the loaded ferry, we headed to the empty boat with the driver "my friend". Here's Gaden enjoying the trip back across the river.
Link to Tibet Day 3: Road to GyantseLabels: Samye, Samye ferry, Tibet, Yarlung river
Hours could be spent shopping in the Barkhor area. Seeing everything from cut-rate Chinese plastic to overpriced Tibetan antiques. We opted for shopping at the Dropenling Handicraft Development Center, where all profits are returned to the artisan communities. A few Tibetan rugs and associated masks later, we headed off to the Thangka stores. Our favorite was Mani Thangka Arts, across from the Pentoc Hotel.
Off we head to the dinner show at the Shangri-la restaurant. After the range of food we'd had on his trip, the food and yak butter tea were no longer too exciting. But it is always fun to see a bit of the music and dance culture of a region. Blessings were brought onto Sherry and Judy by the (scruffy) dancing yak...neither seems thrilled.
After enjoying the chili powders Cynthia bought in Dali on the Yunnan trip, I was determined to acquire chili from Tibet. Here we are in the market, negotiating on enough chili to last two families a year or more!
Finally, a few spots of local color. The touch of China displayed by the police officer clipping toenails while on duty in Barkhor Square. The juxtaposition of old and new with monks in front of the Budweiser tent which houses the police guards at Barkhor Square.
